Friday, January 19, 2007

Taxi Driver Story

A Peace Corps Volunteer was visiting me during the week of Christmas and we decided to visit another volunteer that lived close by. We got to her site with no issues, but getting back to my town was another story.

We got Peugeot cab that looked like it was from 1970 with the driver looking like he was 70. We got in regardless with other Ghanaians because it was a shared taxi and these are a lot cheaper than chartering one by ourselves. The 5 minute journey started with no issues until our driver said that he needed gas. We pulled into the gas station, the driver filled up a gallon jug with fuel and we went on our way. On another note, at this gas station you have to manually pump the gas. It’s not like the gas stations in America. Anyway, about 200 feet after we left the gas station the car runs out of gas. So the driver takes the gallon jug that he just filled up and puts it into the gas tank. He then proceeded to get back into the car and try and start the engine, but of course the car wouldn’t start. The driver opens the hood of the car tries to fiddle with some wires and then comes back in to try and start the car again to no avail. He goes back outside and proceeds to urinate in front of the car with about 7 of us in the car just staring at his flaccid 70 year old penis. He finishes, zips up and you can see that he pissed all over the front of his pants. He then opens up the hood of the car again unplugs a tube from somewhere and starts sucking on it. He’s siphoning gas up the tube. He gets back into the car, it starts and we go on our way with him spitting and trying to get the taste of gas out of his mouth the rest of the ride.

What was supposed to be a 5 minute ride turned into 25. These are things that happen to me and others on a daily basis in this country, but most of us have gotten use to it. Every time something like this happens to me, I laugh and just say “I Love Ghana.”

Tuesday, January 16, 2007

What I Actually Do Here In Ghana – January 2007

A lot of people have been writing/emailing me asking what exactly I do here in Ghana for the Peace Corps. This is a really difficult question for me to answer because what I do is always changing and may not be what I am actually doing 3 months from now. In order to update everyone on what exactly I do here, I will try and write an entry about this every 3 months. And since this is the first entry of what I am and will be doing in Ghana, I will include all the boring details.

My site is a town/village named Adanwomase in the Ashanti region of Ghana. It is located about 25km northeast of Kumasi, which is the 2nd largest city in Ghana. My site is a Kente weaving village of about 5000~6000 people. Almost all of the men are Kente weavers or sellers and almost all of the women are farmers or traders.

Kente is a cloth that is woven into strips by hand and then sewn together to make cloths that people usually wear on special occasions here in Ghana and other parts of West Africa. It is worn like a toga if you are a male and females wear the Kente cloth as a wrap, almost like a skirt. This probably isn’t the best description of what Kente is, but you can always Wiki or Google Kente to get a better explanation.

So what is the history of Kente? Well I’m not going to write this part out because it was written out for me already on another document by the previous Peace Corps Volunteer here so I just copied and pasted it below.


Although there are a variety of oral histories concerning the origins of Kente Cloth, historians and scholars agree that Kente Cloth production is an extension of centuries of strip-weaving in West Africa. Strip-weaving has existed in West Africa since the 11th century. While it is difficult to pinpoint its exact origins, most scholars believe that the art form was developed in present-day Mali and spread throughout West Africa through trade and migration.

In 1697, the Ashanti King, desiring hand-woven cloth, commissioned one of his sub-chiefs, the Akyimpimhene, to send people from the towns of Adanwomase, Asotwe, Bonwire, and Wonoo to study strip-weaving in Bontuku, a small village in present-day Ivory Coast. When they returned, the apprentices were given swatches of fabric with specific patterns on them that they were told to study and be able to recreate on demand. These patterns were called Sesea and are considered to be the first examples of true Ashanti Kente Cloth. The original centuries-old Sesea swatches are to this day kept in the Kente Chief’s house in Adanwomase.

Since the first apprentices returned from Bontuku, Adanwomase has consistently been the royal weaving village for the Ashanti King. The apprentices spread the art of Kente-weaving to their friends and families and in the process added their own designs and colors, creating the cloth that today is recognized worldwide as Ashanti Kente.

Like all other things, Kente Cloth has changed over time. Formerly, weavers used only black and white locally spun silk or cotton thread. Now, many weavers use colorful rayon and even metallic thread imported from Asia. Similarly, while strips were formerly sewn together only by hand, many Kente producers now use sewing machines to increase efficiency.

Still, the essence of Kente Cloth remains unchanged. Kente Cloth remains a powerful cultural symbol and source of pride, both for Ghanaians and the African Diaspora. The cloth is worn and used by royals, in worship, and for birth, marriage, and death ceremonies. Kente continues to chronicle local history and knowledge. Designs have specific names and meanings that reflect cultural values and historical events.

To this day, Adanwomase carries on the centuries-old Kente-weaving tradition. Under the guidance of the Kente Chief, Adanwomase weavers continue to weave cloths for the Ashanti King, royals, and anyone in the world who appreciates the history and cultural significance woven into Ashanti Kente.

Kente is what I will be living for, for the next 2 years of my life. My job/project will be to help improve and sustain cultural tourism relating to Kente Cloth production in Adanwomase. My host agencies are the Ghana Tourist Board, which is a government organization and Nature Conservation and Research Center (NCRC), which is a non governmental organization (NGO) started by a Canadian and based out of Ghana. I will be working with them to:
  • Assist in the community sensitization process in ecotourism development.
  • Continue to strengthen the Tourism Management Team (TMT) by regular follow-up visits and meetings to assess their needs and challenges.
  • Continue the implementation of the medium and long-term strategic plans developed by the TMT.
  • Cooperate with the Ashanti Regional Office of the Ghana Tourist Board on development of the community.
  • Communicate and collaborate with NCRC to identify priority areas and new resources for the community.

This is formally what my job will be for the next two years. Essentially my main role here is going to be to help the TMT implement their medium to long term goals while I am here. Realistically, I don’t think I am going to be able to really help them with their long term goals of getting a hotel, restaurant, state of the art weaving center, thread manufacturing factory and a Kente Textile Museum. The total cost of getting their long term goals accomplished will probably be in the range of a million dollars so if anyone feels like they want to do some good and donate a million dollars, write/email/call me.

The medium term goals are things that I feel I can help to get accomplished while I am here and this is what I will be spending a majority of my time working on. Some of the things I will be helping the TMT do is to set up some guest housing, helping someone try and create a small restaurant to cater to the tastes of the tourists, expand the current Visitor’s Center, and creating public toilet facilities for tourists. What I am most excited about helping to do though is to organize a Kwabre District Craft Festival and tour circuit with nearby villages/towns. The area I am living in is known for its crafts throughout Ghana. My town and a couple of others weave Kente, Ntonso, another town in the district does Adinkra stamping/screen printing, Ahwiaa does wood carving and Pankrono makes clay pottery. I am trying to help set up the Kwabre District Craft Festival in August sometime of this year with the help of the TMT and Kwabre District Assembly. And eventually I want tourists to be able to go on a tour circuit of the 4 main craft villages in the district so that other villages/towns in the area benefit from the revenues created from tourism.

Some other things I want to work on are getting the Kente sellers and weavers to create different products other than cloths to be worn. From what I’ve seen you can basically make anything out of Kente that you can make out of any type of cloth. The most functional items to be made (in my opinion) though are things like bed spreads, table runners, table cloths, dining sets (place mats & napkins), scarves, and possibly a rug. I am currently trying to make a wallet out of some strips that I got to see if it will be worth it. Depending on the designs these strips take months and possibly even years to weave.

While I am here I will also be working on some secondary projects that I identify that the community needs. The volunteer before me did a lot in this area and renovated an unused building block that use to be the Junior Secondary School (JSS) into housing for teachers. Another project he completed was setting up a library for the JSS. And all Peace Corps Volunteers do work in HIV/AIDS education in one capacity or another. One thing I am trying to get done while I am here is to set up a computer resource center in the community for the students so that they get some hands on experience with computers so that it helps them with jobs later in life. I have a lot of ideas on what I want to do and how I want to help, but it all depends on how feasible it will be and whether or not it will be sustainable after Peace Corps Volunteers leave.

I have officially been at my site for about a month and a half now. For the first 2 months I was here in Ghana, they had us all in training sessions. During my time at site so far it doesn’t seem like I have done a lot of work. Things here just move at a slower pace and it just seems everything and everyone is so laid back. Work does get done, but just not at the speed I want or am use to. With my time here I have been meeting with the different community committees, important community members, visiting the churches (there are 11 in this town alone), visiting the schools, continuing to learn the language (for me it is Twi), and just hanging out learning more about Kente. This is all considered work for the Peace Corps volunteer supposedly because we have to “integrate” into the communities to be a more effective volunteer. The only thing I have done that I consider to be real work thus far is that I was working with NCRC in getting a proposal written and submitted to different corporations so we can get some sort of corporate funding somehow. My counterpart and I basically did the leg work for it in our town by visiting all important community organizations and members getting letters of support for the proposal.

So for now this is my role for the Peace Corps here in Ghana. I’m pretty fortunate because I actually have work to do, while other volunteers are still sitting around doing nothing for one reason or another. I’m sure in 3 months all of what I am doing or supposed to be doing will change. I welcome the change and the challenges this country presents me with everyday because of what it teaches and the experiences it gives me here on a daily basis.

Monday, January 15, 2007

Everyone is Dying

It seems that people here in Ghana die at a faster rate than in other places in the world, specifically the Western world. I attend about one funeral a week in my Kente funeral cloth (toga style). Although, these days I haven’t attended any in a while because funerals are banned during the Christmas and New Years time, but I’m sure I will start going to them again starting this coming week.

Usually the people that pass away are older so it is expected, but yesterday a 12 year old girl passed away suddenly. She wasn’t sick or anything, but when she woke up yesterday she complained of neck pain and was taken to the hospital. The doctors treated her, but she ended up dying. I don’t know the specific details on what exactly happened. They said that the girl complained of neck pain when she woke up because in her dream someone was hitting her on the neck with a stick. (This seems like some juju or witch doctor shit)

I haven’t been here long, but I feel like I’m getting numb to certain emotions like sadness because I don’t see death as a bad thing (depending on the circumstances). It just feels like a part of life now because people here are dying around me all the time. I don’t know what I’m babbling about anymore so I’m going to stop now, but I felt like writing this down.

Friday, January 05, 2007

Moustache

What do you do when you get bored and have too much time on your hands here in Ghana? You shave your head and start growing a moustache. I’ve had my head shaved here for about a month now, but I started to grow a moustache about a week and a half ago. I had no reservations about shaving the ‘dome’ because I’ve done it before, but I could never bring myself to grow a ‘stache’ because I look like a dirty chink with one. I plan on growing all sorts of different styles of facial hair while I am here, but to start I am growing a moustache. Hopefully I can get some pictures up soon where you can actually see the beast that is growing on my upper lip.